Why do cats stop growing? Usually, kittens stop growing sometime around their first year. Their body and bones are already fully developed, but sometimes they can still have some extra filling in to do. While most cats will stop growing within 12 months of birth, not all cats will fully finish growing. Some continue to grow well into adulthood, while others only reach their full size after many years have passed.
If you’re asking yourself: When do cats stop growing? How do you know when your cat is growing old? When does a cat stop growing? How do you tell when your cat has reached its prime? If you are trying to find out the answers to these questions, you should know a little bit about how cats work.
Cat Growing Stages
When do cats stop growing? When they reach their final maturation, that is. That’s because the most important thing for a cat when it comes to growth is just reaching the adult stage. The older a cat gets, the less likely it is that it will keep growing. Most breeds reach an “adult-size” somewhere between one and two years after they were born. While they usually stop growing during that time, kittens and cats rarely stop growing altogether.
So, how do you know when your cat is getting old? You can look at your adult cat and judge its size and look at its habits. If it is eating a lot, is sleeping a lot more than usual, and generally appears to be a bit slower than the rest of its peers, then you know that it is getting on in years. This is not a sign that anything is wrong with your cat; it simply means that it is getting older.
How much do cats weigh when they grow older?
How much do cats weigh as they grow older? When cats are young, they usually only need a litter of one to five pounds. But, most cats, depending on the breed, need at least ten pounds to be regarded as a mature cat. When they are around ten pounds, they are ready to fend for themselves.
Some domestic cats actually stop gaining weight when they are nearly a year old! When they enter adulthood, many breeds stop gaining weight because they enter into a different stage of their life. Many pet stores and breeders will tell you that younger cats can have a more active lifestyle than older, grown breeds.
How can my cat grow older?
So, what makes cats grow old? One answer is food. Food does play a big part in how old your cat gets. Some experts say that giving your cat the right food can actually help you predict how old your cat will become. Most cat food companies offer formulas that are based on a particular timetable. Some even use growth charts to give you an idea of where your cat may be at various points in his life based on how much food he has been eating.
Nutrition is Key to Your Cat Aging Well.
If your vet gives you a growth chart, or you see one in the pet food’s manual, try feeding your cat the appropriate formula. You may want to start your pet’s life in a small amount, then increase it as it grows. Even if it is not your intention to give a cat meat every day, it may still be best for him. Also, be sure to talk to your vet about what vitamins or nutrients your cat needs for optimal nutrition; some foods are better protein sources than others.
When you look at the various breeds of cats, you will see that many have different requirements for being fed and nurtured. When you are considering raising cats, you will want to provide them with everything they need, including plenty of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and fiber. When you feed a cat food with all this in it, you will help them live a long, healthy, and happy life.
When Do Cats Stop Growing?
Why do cats stop growing? Usually, kittens stop growing sometime around their first year. Their body and bones are already fully developed, but sometimes they can still have some extra filling in to do. While most cats will stop growing within 12 months of birth, not all cats will fully finish growing. Some continue to grow well into adulthood, while others only reach their full size after many years have passed.
If you’re asking yourself: When do cats stop growing? How do you know when your cat is growing old? When does a cat stop growing? How do you tell when your cat has reached its prime? If you are trying to find out the answers to these questions, you should know a little bit about how cats work.
Cat Growing Stages
When do cats stop growing? When they reach their final maturation, that is. That’s because the most important thing for a cat when it comes to growth is just reaching the adult stage. The older a cat gets, the less likely it is that it will keep growing. Most breeds reach an “adult-size” somewhere between one and two years after they were born. While they usually stop growing during that time, kittens and cats rarely stop growing altogether.
So, how do you know when your cat is getting old? You can look at your adult cat and judge its size and look at its habits. If it is eating a lot, is sleeping a lot more than usual, and generally appears to be a bit slower than the rest of its peers, then you know that it is getting on in years. This is not a sign that anything is wrong with your cat; it simply means that it is getting older.
How much do cats weigh when they grow older?
How much do cats weigh as they grow older? When cats are young, they usually only need a litter of one to five pounds. But, most cats, depending on the breed, need at least ten pounds to be regarded as a mature cat. When they are around ten pounds, they are ready to fend for themselves.
Some domestic cats actually stop gaining weight when they are nearly a year old! When they enter adulthood, many breeds stop gaining weight because they enter into a different stage of their life. Many pet stores and breeders will tell you that younger cats can have a more active lifestyle than older, grown breeds.
How can my cat grow older?
So, what makes cats grow old? One answer is food. Food does play a big part in how old your cat gets. Some experts say that giving your cat the right food can actually help you predict how old your cat will become. Most cat food companies offer formulas that are based on a particular timetable. Some even use growth charts to give you an idea of where your cat may be at various points in his life based on how much food he has been eating.
Nutrition is Key to Your Cat Aging Well.
If your vet gives you a growth chart, or you see one in the pet food’s manual, try feeding your cat the appropriate formula. You may want to start your pet’s life in a small amount, then increase it as it grows. Even if it is not your intention to give a cat meat every day, it may still be best for him. Also, be sure to talk to your vet about what vitamins or nutrients your cat needs for optimal nutrition; some foods are better protein sources than others.
When you look at the various breeds of cats, you will see that many have different requirements for being fed and nurtured. When you are considering raising cats, you will want to provide them with everything they need, including plenty of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and fiber. When you feed a cat food with all this in it, you will help them live a long, healthy, and happy life.
Having cats as pets usually means porter-duty for you, the owner. Cat flaps are a solution, but having a standard, non-automatic flap might invite intruders into your house. If this is the case, automatic cat doors are the solution to your problem. In this article, we will review, and dive into the specifics, of the Cat Mate Elite Cat Door With Timer.
What Is The Cat Mate Elite Automatic Cat Flap With Timer?
The Cat Mate Elite is an automatic cat door that makes use of RFID technology to unlock the door mechanism for the cat, so your pet can push the flap and enter or exit. RFID stands for Radio Frequency IDentification.
The cat needs a pre-programmed RFID collar tag with its own personalized ID. The ID will get scanned by a control board in the electronic cat flap. The system unlocks when it recognizes the ID.
It’s a safe means of access control for pet doors because only animals with a preapproved RFID collar tag can exit or enter the flap.
When you purchase this device, it comes with two collar ID tags for you to register. The Cat Mate can hold up to eight ID’s in it’s built in memory. It can manage the entry and exit for up to eight pets of your choice. It keeps all undesired animals out. If you currently have more than two pets, you can buy additional tags separately. Collar tags are quite affordable.
SELECTIVE ENTRY & EXIT
The Cat Mate Elite features selective entry and exit access control. It does this using its special locking mechanism. The mechanism locks either the exit or entry, both, or neither.
By utilizing the method of selective entry, you can plan individually which cat will be indoor-only and which ones of your cats will have entirely free access to the outside.
The Cat Mate Elite Super Selective has a timer which enables you to program an outdoor routine for your cat.
The device comes with an LCD display. The LCD screen displays the currently programmed entry and exit lock status. IT also shows you if the cat is inside or outside. It also tells you the time the door was last used by that unique ID, to up to three cats.
The device comes with a 4-way locking system:
both in & out-
only inside
only outside
locked
The Cat Mate Elite door operates on four AA batteries. The batteries last around six to nine months, based on the usage and the quality of the batteries. Batteries are not included.
What Are The Features Of The Automatic Cat Flap?
Suitable for small to medium size cats.
It will keep all unwanted animals out.
Only cats with the preregistered collar tags can enter/exit through the door, based on the settings you selected.
Selective control: decide per cat who exits and enters.
With the use of unique ID collar tags, you can control which cats will be indoor-only and which ones outside.
Timed control access enables you to establish an outdoor routine for your cat. Like keeping the cats in after five pm.
The LCD screen shows you the selected entry and exit lock settings, if your cats are inside or outside, and the last time the door was activated by which ID, You can look up the location of up to three cats.
The Unit includes two electronic ID tags (can be set to work with up to eight unique ID’s).
4-way locking settings
Has a battery life indicator
It is powered by four AA batteries.
Frame-lining up to two (50 cm), ideal for various types of installations.
Extra liners for wall installations. You can buy these separately.
A weather-proof, brush sealed, flap.
A rain seal to keep water out and stop it from leaking.
Size And Dimension
Overall dimensions: 9.75″W x 10.5″H
Cut out Size: 6.5″W x 6.5″H
Diameter: 9.125″
Door size: 6″W x 6″H
Pet Max Shoulder Width: 5.7″
How Does This Device Operate?
The Cat Mate Elite operates through a control board, a scanner and a collar tag with a microchip. The chip acts as a key for the control board to read.
When the registered unique ID, located on the cat’s collar, gets scanned and recognized by the control board, a hinge unlocks. This action allows the cat to move the door with its head, nose or perhaps paws and get through.
The activation distance is a couple of inches. The disc has to be close enough to the scanner to be read. Otherwise, the tag will not get read, and therefore the mechanism will not unlock.
The cat door takes approximately 1-2 seconds to open up after reading the pet’s ID. The flap needs about 2-3 seconds to fasten, depending on the settings you provided, giving the cat adequate time to go through the door.
When unlocking, the mechanism makes a clicking sound. This way the cat can learn it’s OK to push the door and subsequently go through it.
After the cat has cleared the door of its tail, the pet door makes a sound when locking.
The locking mechanism consists of small pegs that pop up from the frame into the base of the door.
This is the reason why the Cat Mate Elite Super Selective is promoted as raccoon-proof because the locking mechanism doesn’t rely on an outside control, or even a latch, that intelligent animals like raccoons or stray cats can easily manipulate.
Cat Mate Elite operates through RFID collar tags. If your cat has a microchip implant, the implant will not interfere with the correct functioning of the automatic flap.
4-Way Locking Settings:
In & Out: your pets using their respective collar tags have free access to exit and entry.
In-Only: your pets can enter the door, but they cannot get back out.
Out-Only: your pets can exit the door, but they cannot get back in.
Locked: the flap is fully secured.
How Does The Programmable Timer Work?
The timer enables you to establish an outdoor routine for your pets.
For instance, if you would like your pet to exit the door starting from nine am, and remain inside after eight pm, you can schedule this with this particular pet door.
If you have a multi cat household, the timer will not have the ability to selectively determine which cat will continue to be inside or outside at predesignated times.
The routine of the timer is set for all cats simultaneously.
Example: all kitties will have the ability to go outdoors at ten am or even later, and they cannot leave the house to go to the great outdoors after five pm.
If it happens that one of your cats didn’t get inside before the time you set, the mechanism will not have your pet locked outside.
Your pets still have the ability to get in after the programmed time. They just can’t go back out.
The cat must find out how the method works to be able to use properly. Most cats find it easy to figure out how the automatic door works
Setting the Automatic Timer
.
For starters, the cat has to nudge the door with its nose, head or paws. Now the sensor begins searching for the RFID tag.
After the sensor registers the unique RFID code and recognizes it, the flap unlocks. The locking pegs disengage, producing a bit of a clicking sound. The cat must identify this sound, so it knows it can get through, push the flap and then walk through.
If the cat hesitates and remains at the same location, not entering the door, the device will lock once again.
Generally speaking, cats adapt very quickly to this particular pet door. Sometimes, they just need a bit of the right training.
Cat owners need the persistence to train the cat, as well as to hold out on relying on the cat to use it, until the cat feels self-assured enough to use it.
This may take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, up to even a month, based on your feline.
Ultimately, all cats will want to use the door if they know adventure or food is waiting for them on the other side of the door.
The Cat Mate Elite Super Selective features a training mode setting which enables the cat exiting and entering the door without needing to make use of microchip or even watching for the press noise to push. With the training mode, the door is similar to a non- automatic pet door.
Tips On Training Your Cat To Use This Flap
This tip holds true for cats that have previously used a non-automatic pet door, and they already understand how to push the flap to get in or out.
The most important thing to do is to ensure that your cat will not hear the unlocking sound the very first time while pressing the door with its nose or head, trying to get in.
This may scare your cat to never wanting to use it again.
To prevent this from happening, you could trigger the locking system intentionally a few times while your cat is feeling secure somewhere in your home. Ultimately, your feline friend will come to investigate the strange new thing in the house.
This encounter already is special. Your cat will get used to this particular noise, and he or she will realize it’s not a threat.
It is certainly possible to reward your cat’s courageousness with treats in the progression.
When your cat becomes used to this particular noise, he or perhaps she can begin making use of the door with the RFID tag mechanism.
If your cat has never made use of a cat door, the owner’s manual has instructions and tips on the best way to train your cat to use an automatic cat door.
Basic Instructions on Installing This Flap
The standard set up doesn’t take more than thirty minutes. Nearly all of this time you will spend measuring the installation site and the automatic pet flap.
When you’ve cut the hole, it’ll be just a question of drilling two holes on both sides and subsequently screw the two halves of the automatic pet flap tight together.
It’s an excellent idea to find out where exactly to set up the pet door: the RFID microchip tag has to be at a certain level to be read by the scanner of the door. In case you mount the door too high, or perhaps too low, the microchip may not scan correctly.
However, the directions in the manual are very clear and easy to understand. If you stick to them, you shouldn’t have any trouble.
Wooden doors
Setting up the automatic cat door in flat wooden doors is actually the easiest.
After making sure of the correct measurements, draw the soon-to-be hole on the door. Then cut out the hole. Drill 2 holes, one on each side, and screw the 2 halves of the Cat Mate Elite together.
Metal doors
Installation in metal doors takes a bit longer. When installing the unit in a metal door, the door may not touch the metal directly. Touching metal will hinder the RFID signal.
Glass Doors or Windows
Generally speaking, it’s not advised to set up the cat door in glass panels. They might have way too much condensation.
We suggest you to invest in a glazier to cut holes in any glass objects. Then follow very carefully, the directions to set up the cat door.
It’s not easy to cut a gap in a double glass; you might have to get a brand new glass with the hole pre-cut in it.
When you prefer a simpler installation, you may want to change the glass board for Plexiglass and proceed as the standard installation.
Walls
You probably need wall liners to set up the door in a wall. If a wall is quite thick, liners could be added in accordance with the Elite range.
A liner’s depth measures 1.96 (50mm).
How You Can Use It as A Timed Cat Flap Only
When you do not have any issues with unwanted animals entering your house; you just need a timed pet door.
Perhaps you simply do not wish to open the door every morning to allow your feline to go out, nor would you like to have to search for your feline buddy at night-time to keep him or her safely indoors at night.
This tip can help you:
Since the pet door doesn’t lock while in training mode, you might want to tape the RFID microchip to the interior of the cat door.
By doing this, with the correct settings, the door will invariably open. The chip is right there to be scanned by the scanner. Your cat will not have to utilize a collar tag, and with the timer, it’ll be locked in at night, and your pet will have the freedom to get out in the early morning, without the need of your in-person intervention.
The sole concern of setting up the cat door this means it’s the excess use of batteries, but it’ll be the price to pay to stop you from having doorman duty.
What Are The Advantages and Disadvantages Of The Cat Mate Elite Cat Door?
The Good
4-way locking setting
Selective exit and entry management, you’ll be able to determine which cat will be indoor-only and which ones can swing both ways.
Easy to set up in standard doors
The LCD shows you the general location of your pets., which cat is in- and which one is outside. It also tells you the last time the door was used.
The Catmate has a timer that enables you to establish an outdoor schedule for your kitties.
Features an internal locking system that cannot be manipulated by animals from the outside.
Helps to stop raccoons from entering your domicile.
The length of time to secure the lock may be modified to your cats’ needs. It will provide your pet with adequate time to clear the automatic flap of its tail.
It flaps a lot quieter than many other cat doors brands.
It has battery life indicator.
It may be put in training mode for your cat to get used, without it needing to use a microchip.
If used in combination with a feeding station, you can check out if your cat has consumed.
It does not leak much air in comparison to several other cat doors on the industry, keeping out the cold draft.
Sturdy and well thought out design.
Excellent for medium and small sized cats.
The Disadvantages
Programming does not feel straight forward. You might need to read the manual.
The device doesn’t appear to work very well when installed in solid metal doors?
The microchip RFID tags are actually a bit big for cats, but they’re not heavy.
The door makes a clicking noise when unlocking, similar to the noise level of an old deadbolt lock. It may scare your cat if not used to this sound.
Tags don’t have a discount if you buy multiple at once. (a Con if your cat keeps losing its tag).
The tag has to be close to the panel and facing it, to get scanned. The Door opening might not be appropriate for big or overweight cats.
The timer doesn’t work separately for each ID; it works for every IDs simultaneously. Example: all cats reside in daily from six pm onwards).
Occasionally the door locks erroneously, leaving the door stuck. However, this doesn’t often happen, and when it does, it is often only when cats take too long to go through the door.
A bit tricky to put batteries into the compartment (you only need to do this every six weeks or so, so it might not be a huge deal.
Screws aren’t that high quality.
Useful Tips, Tricks And Advice
Make the flap opaque, by duct taping it or painting it.
You’ll realize two things by doing this:
It will discourage raccoons or perhaps other cats from snooping inside, which gets them much more inspired to get in.
It will discourage your cat from looking outside which might unlock the door unintentionally if sitting way too close
If the door got locked with the pegs out, the very best way to reset the product is by using the training mode setting.
Push the system and 4-Way button together for five seconds. The program switch is placed under the battery cover.
This resetting retracts the pegs, and the door can swing back to original position. After that, you’ve to press the very same buttons once again to reset the door to its programmed setting. This way, you do not have to reprogram the ID’s.
Make sure your cat’s tag is interacting correctly with the control panel’s scanner. If it is not doing this the right way, the scanner does not have the ability to check out the cat’s tag
If your cat has pulled open a previous cat door with its paws, it’s a wise idea to secure the door manually, at night-time.
Because, if your cats are remarkably bright, they may be in the position to pull the flap inwards to get outdoors. For safety reasons, the door doesn’t secure from the outside when put in In-Only operating mode, for when the case occurs that in which a kitty accidentally gets out through the door or windows
The Cat Mate Elite’s ability to selectively recognize which cat can exit and/or enter, and the timer which enables you to establish a cycle for your cat or even cats, makes this particular device a remarkably good option for cat owners with more than one feline friend cat, and need all these functions.
The door only works with collar tags and not with implanted microchips. If your cat is a rowdy fighter or exceptionally adventurous and prone to lose its collar, you might want to rethink if it’s a good idea to have your cat wearing a collar with an attached door tag.
The device may not work well with indecisive cats; cats that are constantly thinking which step to take next. The door has a specific time frame for the cat to be fully inside. If your cat is slow, it’s tail might stop the flap from locking correctly.
Lastly, the cat door is promoted as raccoon-proof because it cannot be manipulated externally to unlock it.
However, there’s not a single cat door on the market which will not falter if an exceptionally powerful or large raccoon smashes the door over and over again, trying to break the flap mechanism. Exceptions will always exist, but for regular raccoons, the product works as advertised.
For all these reasons, we recommend Cat Mate Super Selective to:
Small to medium size cats
Self confident cats
If you wish to stop a raccoon or the nosy neighborhood cats from entering your house
If you own a number of cats and one or more of them are (temporary) indoor-only.
This cat door might not be suited for :
Large or overweight cats
Insecure or easily scared cats
A cat who does not like wearing collars, and sheds them easily. We advise you to do a test run you cat for a week with a wearing a collar before you invest in this door.
Automatic cat doors are useful gimmicks if you want your cat to become an indoor and/or outdoor pet. It is scientifically proven that when cats have the freedom to roam the great outdoors, they are healthier and happier in safe environments and with proper care. In this article we review the SureFlap Dualscan.
SureFlap DualScan Microchip Cat Door Review
The SureFlap DualScan microchip cat door is an automatic pet door with an dual antenna. The antenna reads your cat’s unique ID microchip when exiting and entering the door.
The chip operates as a key to unlock the program, and you can have it implanted under your cat’s skin. Or, if you do not wish to microchip your cat, it can be used in conjunction with a SureFlap RFID collar tag.
If your cat has already been micro-chipped, the SureFlap DualScan works with most existing 9, 10 and 15 digit microchips. The only exceptions are those starting with 000, 010 and 020.
The pet door’s internal memory can store as much as 32 microchip codes.
The SureFlap DualScan, with its selective entry and exit feature, is helpful if you need to limit a couple of your cats to indoor-only, while simultaneously allowing other cats to go out.
The device will keep the neighbor’s cat from getting into your home. At the same time, you’re in a position to block the exit function to the cat you want to stay indoors.
In order to let your cat remain inside, remove its specific ID number from the pre-programmed exit-allowed memory. Or perhaps, don’t microchip the cat. If your cat isn’t chipped, you can simply remove your pet’s RFID collar tags.
The device comes with a 4-way manual lock, allowing any combination of in/out. The door has a strong magnet on the middle which stops it from flapping in the wind.
What Are The Features?
The DualScan technology with twin antennas features selective entry and exit, allowing to keep indoor-only cats safely inside.
Safety mode allows indoor-only cats to enter through the flap in the rare case they do escape through windows or doors left open. My cat Pushkin is very adept at escaping through open doors. Now I think of it, escaping cats are not rare at all.
Will it keep unwanted pets or perhaps other animals from getting into your house, including raccoons? Yeah. It will prevent intruder animals entering your dwelling, that includes extra protection against cheeky raccoons.
Will it work with your cat’s existing microchip? Probably. It is compatible with nearly all conventional 9, 10 or even fifteen digit microchips (except those starting with 000, 010 and 020).
It works with RFID collar tags (not included, buy them separately here) if you don’t want to chip your cat.
Simple programming of the flap by clicking a button; easy reprogramming allows you to change exit and entry permissions at any time.
It provides you with the flexibility to manage your pets ability to get in/out according to your requirements.
It features 4-way manual locking. By moving a control, you can put the door in Locked mode. This action shuts the pet door completely. The SureFlap DualScan may be implemented in doors, windows, and walls.
This device requires four AA batteries (not included). Battery life is up to 3 months, based on the use and quality of the batteries. It has a built-in battery life indicator. Color: white
Sizes and Dimensions
Exterior Frame Dimensions: 8.26? (W) x 8.26? (H) / 210mm (W) x 210mm (H)
Flap Opening Dimensions: 5.59? (W) x 4.72? (H) / 142mm (W) x 120mm (H) (This dimension is actually the smallest location of the cat door that your cat will have to enter).
Hole Cutting Dimensions: 6.5? (W) x 6.73? (H) / 165mm (W) x 171mm (H) (The size of the gap had to place your cat door. Installation Template enables you to reduce the hole).?
Tunnel Depth (outside): 2.75? / 70mm?
Tunnel Thickness: 0.18 / 4.5mm?
Tunnel’s Interior Dimensions: 5.9 (W) x 6.1 (H) / 150mm (W) x 155mm (H)?
Front Frame Depth (frame from inside): 3.0 / 78mm? Item Weight: 3.5 lbs / 1.6 kg
The microchip gets implanted under the cat’s skin. To get the cat’s implanted chip scanned, whether, from the inside or the outside of the SureFlap, the cat has to thrust its head in the tunnel/opening for the door to unlock.
This means the microchip ideally has to be put on the cat’s back neck.
If your cat was microchipped a fairly long time ago, you might have to determine if the chip hasn’t migrated further down its neck, because it may not do the job effectively if this occurs.
SureFlap DualScan operates with passive RFID technology, meaning a microchip implanted under the cat’s skin holds information that’s waiting to be scanned by a scanner on the cat door.
The microchip itself doesn’t send this data to the scanner; it must be read by the scanner to unlock the flap mechanism.
When your cat gets near the pet door, the scanner mounted in the DualScan’s tunnel reads the data stored in the microchip, recognizing the ID and unlocking the system.
Next, the cat must push the door with its head or nose and move through. To get its microchip read, the cat has to put its head in the tunnel.
After the cat has passed through the flap, a magnet located on the flap’s bottom part will help shut the door. The magnet will keep the door from not locking correctly and from flapping in the wind.
The SureFlap DualScan has two antennas or scanners to check the microchip with: one scanner is placed on the inside of your home. The other one is placed on the outside.
The inside and outside scanners can be programmed separately, which permits pet owners to decide which cats will be indoor/outdoor and which cats will be indoor-only.
This device is the sole microchip cat door that enables you to program which cat can exit the door. Simultaneously, it provides you with the capability to prevent unwanted animals from getting into your house.
Effective against Raccoons and Neighborhood Cats
Perhaps the most awesome feature of the SureFlap DualScan is its power to entirely block the malicious plans of raccoons to pull open the door from outside, which occurs, unfortunately, quite often with various other brands of cat flaps.
This cat door features double locking technique, an outside catch outside will stop the raccoon from taking the door outwards, making it raccoon-proof.
Precisely the same way, if you have smart cats in your neighborhood who figured out how to pull your cat doors wide open, this flap can remedy this issue too.
Safety Mode
The device has an emergency mode which allows your only-indoor cat to get into the door, in case you forgot to shut the windows or doors and your pet escaped through it.
4-Way Locking Settings
2-Ways.
When the cat’s ID is programmed in to have enter and exit access, your cat is free to come and go at as he or she pleases.
Only-In.
Your cat can easily get in, but it cannot get back out (set manually, by turning a dial). This setting comes in handy to keep outdoor and indoor cats at home at nighttime, or when you’re expecting a Vet visit. Using this mode, you have all cats inside without having to reprogram all ID’s.Additionally to the mechanical Only In function, you can electronically program the door for Only In for a cat of your choice, who you would like to be indoor-only. Either permanently, or just for a few days.
Unlike the manual Only-In, which latches the door for everyone, the electronically programmed Only In stops only the inside cat from going out, while leaving the others free to exit the house when they want.You can do this by programming its microchip in Safety Learn Mode. To do this, push a button and make your indoor-only cat go through, so the mind learns its chip code.
In Safety Learn Mode, the indoor cat will not be in a position to get out, but if the kitty escapes through a window, it’ll still have access to go back in through the pet door.
Only-Out.
Your cat could get out, but it cannot get back inside (latching the door by hand, by turning a dial). This enables you to maintain your cat outside in case you need. This particular setting isn’t used very often, but it might be helpful if you’ve visitors with a bad allergy to cats.
Locked. Completely barred from both sides (manually by turning a control). In this mode, the door cannot be utilized at all by your cats. This setting is commonly used when leaving for a trip, or to lock in brilliant cats.
To program the device, you have to press a button. This way it’ll go into Learn mode. Then you have to make your cat pass through to let the mind to retain the microchip ID. A pulsating light with a click sound suggests that the ID chip has been preserved. You can do this before the setup or perhaps after, but it’s far better to do it before to ensure that the microchip works.
Programming in metal doors it’s a bit different. See the way to program a metal door here.
The cat has to get used to the click sound when the door unlocks then push with its nose through. There are many methods for the cat to get used to the door’s tunnel and the unlocking sound.
The noise is audible, but not intrusive. This device is actually among the quietest on the marketplace, but the cat still has to get used to it. On the other hand, it’s helpful to know when your cat is actually waiting to are available in or perhaps when leaving.
How To Train Your Cat To Use The Pet Door
In the event that you would like to train your cat, these are some suggestions used effectively by customers:
Take the batteries out and make use of the door as a non-automatic one.
Tape the door opened for several days and let your cat make use of it the way, so it’ll get used to the clicking noise as well as the tunnel, without the stress of having to drive the door.
Get a SureFlap collar tag so that you can open the door yourself and promote the cat to pass through it.
Install the cat door in a carton box first, and get your pet used to pass through it before you install it in the door or wall.
SureFlap DualScan Mounting Adapter
A Basic Guide To Installing The Cat Flap
You install the DualScan in a regular sized door (1.3/4″ thick), the tunnel created measures six inches at it’s narrowest, where the cat has to go through.
The full external dimensions, when installed in a regular door, are approximately 8-1/4 width x 8-1/4 height x six depth
This system comes with screw sets to make adjustments to the door’s depth so that it will fit in non-standard doors as well.
Equipment required to install the automatic cat flap:
1. A marker with a felt tip
2. A tape measure
3. A jig saw
4. A 1/4 bit drill (6mm)
5. A Screwdriver
6. A leveling device
How to Install The DualScan In Different Materials?
Wooden Doors
Installing in wooden doors is simple. The cat flap system doesn’t demand any kind of adapters. You can easily install it with ease, with the items included when you purchase the device. There’s a good instructional video on youtube, showing you precisely how to install the SureFlap DualScan.
Metal doors
Installing the Dualscan in metal doors or walls requires mounting adapters. You have to set up the flap with a Cat Door Mounting Adapter (product code GMA001) because metal interferes with the Radio Frequency control.Exactly how much the metal blocks the RF is determined by just how much steel is in the door. The more steel, the more the signal gets blocked.
To setup the cat door in a glass door or window, you will need a SureFlap Cat Door Mounting Adapter. This adapter is a circular one, and it measures 11 inches. We suggest calling in a specialist in dealing with glass, also known as a glazier, to cut the gap in the door. This will help you to avoid any nasty accidents with glass.
Walls
To install the DualScan in a wall, we suggest you get the Mounting Adapter (GMA001).You also want a SureFlap Cat Door Tunnel Extender (TUN001). You might need one or even more SureFlap Cat Door Tunnel Extenders, based on the thickness of the wall. You’ll be adding approximately 4.25″ to the wall thickness.
The batteries could last approximately from six months to a year, based on calculations for one cat.
Batteries lifespan will depend on:
How many animals use the pet door
What quality of battery you use, and if they are rechargeable or not.
If your cat likes to sit near the automatic door, unlocking it from the inside few times a day. No critters can go through the door from the outside if this happens.
If you have a lot of unwanted visitors attempting to get through the door from outside. This way the motion sensor gets activated more.
Keeping the automatic cat flap clean. If you make sure the flap isn’t obstructed by dirt of filth, your batteries last longer.
What Are The Advantages and Disadvantages of the SureFlap DualScan Cat Door?
The Good
4-way locking system
Easy to set up in a standard door
Easy to program and reprogram
Reliable operation.
Safety mode which enables you to keep your indoor cat in just (not permitted to exit), but if your pet escapes through the window, it’ll have the ability to get back in the building.
Selective entry/exit keeps completely out unwanted animals
Raccoon-proof
Double locking system outside and inside, keeping unwanted animals from taking the door inward with their claws
You can decide per pet which cat will be inside and which one outdoors.
It opens by scanning the unique cat’s programmed microchip code.
Excellent option for cats that shed their collar often or perhaps cannot handle collars well.
You can use it as a regular, non-automatic cat door by getting rid of the batteries. This simple feature is desirable to train your cats in the beginning.
The Bad
A bit smaller than the typical cat door. A tall cat (measured by the height of its neck) or even a cat weighing over eleven pounds could have trouble getting through it.
For a cat to use the door, it has to kind of squat down as it passes through. The door is 4.72″ in height.
Most cats, in general, do not care about going through a narrowish hole, but several cats may not be used to it.
There is a delay between the microchip getting read and the latch unlocking. This delay might be a source of stress if your cat is escaping from a perceived threat.
The flap might not unlock if the microchip is too far down your cat’s neck.
RF technology can mean issues with metal doors. Try and install it somewhere else, if you can.
The scanner’s reading range outside differs than from inside. Make sure your pets can get through both ways.
The soft clicking noise when the product unlocks might frighten some particularly scaredy cats. Keep in mind, all automatic cat doors make a clicking sound when they unfasten.
The flap’s brush does not seal completely. It may let in some draft.
The motion sensor doesn’t work well with cream colored cats.
Screws do not have a great quality.
Batteries last less with cats that love to sit down in front of the catflap window and stare at the great outdoors all day.
Only-In system is manual
The device doesn’t have a timer.
Usage Tips and Advice
When you change the batteries, do not take them out all at the same time. You might mess up the programming settings.
Maintain the machine in a pristine, clean state; wash the bottom part of the frame, as well as the motion sensor, to make sure it is a proper operating condition.
Before buying this unit, an excellent tip is to ensure to that you get the most recent SureFlap DualScan version.
The manufacturer improved the unit’s design and its antenna function.
The SureFlap DualScan is an excellent cat door that works as advertised. It is a great alter solution for cat owners who have several cats and wish to keep some of them indoor-only and the others both outdoors and indoors
Additionally, some individuals might have intruder problems with cheeky raccoons. As the mechanism locks both sides, it’s impossible for raccoons and other small animals (including cats) to pull the door open with their claws.
Based on the advantages and disadvantages, we recommend SureFlap DualScan to you if you:
Have cats that are an average to smaller size. Larger cats might need to get used to making themselves smaller. In the end, it will come down to your cat’s flexibility and willingness to go through a smaller hole.
If you have a cat or perhaps kitten inside and another cat both in- and outdoors.
If you wish to keep out raccoons.
If the neighborhood cats come in your home to spray and eat your cat’s food.
The cat door might not be ideal for:
Tall and large cats (some large cats squeeze themselves through it though)
Particularly scaredy cats, due to the unlocking click noise
Old cats and cats with arthritis or disabilities impairing movement.
Most of the questions a cat behavior therapist gets are about incontinence and spraying. That isn’t so surprising: it is the most common behavioral problem in cats and also, it is a predicament that most owners would like to get fixed ASAP.
What To Do If My Cat Keeps Pooping Or Peeing Outside The Litter Box?
Questions about stopping cats from peeing or pooping outside the litter box are often difficult to answer. There can be so many different causes why a cat is showing incontinence or spraying.
Keep in mind, the marking of specific places with urine and stools is, in fact, a part of normal cat behavior.
Healthy cat behavior
Spraying and marking with urine and stool is healthy, normal cat behavior. Cats use odors to communicate with each other. With their smells, they can pass on information to other cats, including:
Which cat has marked the location.
When has the location been marked
The emotional/hormonal status of the feline who has marked.
Where the boundaries of the cat’s territory lie.
Marking is not only done by urine and stool, but also by scratching objects (visual marking) and giving headbutts to objects (scent marking).
Our cats have glands on the sides of their heads and under the legs. These glands release so-called pheromones in places where they scratch and rub.
Feline Incontinence
With incontinence we mean:
The cat displays natural cat toilet behavior, except for the location: outside the litter box. If the cat shows an unnatural positioning of the body or loud meowing, consult a vet.
The cat then seeks an alternative place because the cat does not want or dare to use the cat litter box or place where the cat litter station is placed.
Or maybe because the cat finds another area to be more attractive to go to the bathroom in.
Once a cat has used the toilet several times in a particular location, this gives him a feeling of learned behavior.
Common Causes of Feline Incontinence:
Pain in excreting on the cat litter box, for example, due to urinary tract problems.
Your cat does not like the grit in the box.
The litter box is not clean enough.
The cat litter box is too small.
The cat would rather not have a cap on the litter box
Your cat wants more privacy. It would rather have a cap on the litter box.
Dislike of the placement of the litter box, for instance by:
Feeding trays and drinking fountains standing next to the litter box
The scent of other cats in the cat litter.
Prevent from other cats that the cat uses the cat litter.
Being a victim of the behavior of other cats.
Being a victim of the behavior of other animals or people.
Fear of other objects near the litter box.
Your cat might want its litter box placed:
Further away from other cats.
Further away from noise.
Further away from activity.
Further away from other things that make the cat anxious.
Preferred for a different surface than the currently used litter grit:
Cats can develop a preference for a particular substrate. If this is the case, it is most likely for soft surfaces, such as towels, pillows, etc.
These preferences can spontaneously develop in cats, but there is often a connection with a dislike of the cat litter box, or the location of the litter box.
The cat will then develop a new preference for a spot to pee and defecate in if the cat feels that this place is better suited for him.
Also, misunderstood behaviors like kitten / young cat, which has developed the young as a preference for a different surface regularly, think of:
Kittens who can not reach the cat litter in time and find soft pillows on their way.
Cats and kittens who, if they are just new at home, can not find the cat litter.
Cats and kittens who, if they are not new at home, do not dare to use the cat litter because they have to pass a dog or cat present at home. 7
Cat Spraying and Urine Marking
A common misconception: only male cats spray to urine mark. Spraying is not just only the behavior of male cats. Some quick facts:
Unneutered tomcats spray the most on average.
10 % of castrated ones still spray urine occasionally,
About 5% of female cats spray from time to time
Castration is, therefore, no guarantee of ending spraying behavior.
Spraying is recognizable by the cat’s position. The cat is upright, peeing a small amount of urine straight from the back. The cat flutters its tail frequently during spraying.
A cat can mark by spraying while standing up, but also, a cat can also mark while seated in the normal excretion position.
This marking can be done both with urine and feces. Cats exhibit these behaviors for the same reasons as spraying.
Spraying (and marking) at home is behavior that shows cats especially when they are feeling insecure about their territory.
Causes of feelings of uncertainty about the territory include:
Stress.
Problems between cats in the house.
Problems with cats outdoors.
Too many cats at home (spraying occurs more often in households with multiple cats. The more cats in the house, the greater the chance of spraying).
Strange new scents in the home.
Abandonment anxiety.
Change of family composition (new pets or family members).
A change in routine of the owner.
The way the owner interacts with the cat.
If the cat is intentionally spraying while in sight of the owner while looking at the owner while performing the act, there is almost always a frustration in the cat that is related to the behavior of the master concerning the cat.
Treatment of Feline Incontinence
Cross out a possible medical cause first. Think of urine examination and possibly additional research by the vet.
If there is no medical cause, try to figure out what other possible cause of litter box failure there might be.
Maybe your cat prefers another location, or just dislikes the litter box itself?
Maybe your cat doesn’t spray mark, but suffers from incontinence caused by other factors. Possible solutions:
Place sufficient cat litter boxes throughout the house (equal to the number of cats +1).
Use cat litter stations that are large enough (1 ½ times the length of the cat).
Make the cat litter box as attractive as possible by using a grit that your cat loves.
Keep the litter boxes clean
Provide sufficient personal space your kitties in multiple cat households.
Clean the contaminated sites thoroughly with a special detergent that is suitable for removing cat urine / feces.
Rinse the contaminated areas after cleaning, by rinsing it with plenty of fresh water.
If necessary, use a special spray that changes the odor molecules on the excretion site, so that these places lose their smell. Make sure that the spray itself does not contain any other fragrances.
Make the excretion spots temporarily unreachable and put (if possible) a litter box on or near this place.
If the cat is urine spraying, try to figure out what is the reason for this and try to remove or fix the reason.
If you think stress or feelings of insecurity play a role, you can buy a pheromone vaporizer. But do not forget to fix the real cause, instead of using a band-aid solution to mask the symptoms.
What you should not do:
Apply strong odors to the excretion site or clean the location with strong smelling detergent. The cat will perceive this as a mark placed over his own. Your pet will likely put his scent back on that same marking location as soon as possible.
Put the cat on the cat litter and hold it. there This action causes the cat to start disliking the cat litter box.
Punish your cat. In practice, the punishment is always late and is not understood by the cat. The punishment causes the cat to feel insecure or frustrated, and consequently, it will display even more problematic behavior!
Drug your cat with medications such as sedatives, hormone injections or antidepressants, without treating the cause of the toilet issues. The chance of success with the sole use of medicine without adaptation to the cat’s environment is small.
In the meantime, you will only spend a lot of money. The cause of the bathroom problems will only get more and more tricky to fix, as time goes by.
Final Thoughts
Cats not using the litter box and spraying in your home can be remedied, if you can find the cause and treat it or remove it. In addition to tackling the cause, it is important that the cat learns to use his designated toilet and the associated behavior again.
Your cat will never spray or excrete in your house to harass you. Your pet always has a good reason for showing this behavior.
If a medical cause is excluded by the vet, and you can not solve the problem yourself, a cat behavior therapist might be able to help you. He or she can then help you find the cause, and help you train your pet to only use the litter box.
Automatic cat doors are a awesome way of keeping unwanted animals out, and your dear kitties or other pets inside your house. Or outside. Electronic cat doors are programmable in pretty much any setting you might want. In this column, we shall take a deeper look at the Cat Mate Electromagnetic Cat Flap
The Cat Mate Electromagnetic Flap is an automatic cat door that provides your pet the choice to exit and type in the home as many times he/she wants, enjoying your backyard and relieving you from full-time doorman duty.
The Cat Mate electronic pet door gives a safe way of letting your cats roam free because it identifies your cat through sophisticated electromagnetic technology. It also enables your cats to get into your dwelling without allowing stray cats, raccoons or other animals to enter your house.
The door recognizes your cat by utilizing a small magnet. The magnet also works as an identification tag, attached to your pet’s collar.
A sensitive circuit centrally located on the control board, senses if the magnet tag is near and if it is, it allows your pet to get through the flap.
This device has 4-way locking settings:
Both ways
Go inside only
Go outside only
Locked.
Frame lining to two 3/8 (60mm). Makes it ideal for all doors. The control panel uses one 9-volt battery, which is not included.
The Cat Mate cat door detects the area of a great compact magnet the cat uses in its collar and unlocks a latch that enables the cat to get into the home from the outside by pressing the door with its nose or perhaps head to get in. After the cat gets inside, the door returns to its usual place to get locked.
The locking system prevents the door from swinging into the home, but not from swinging outwards.
How the 4-Way setting works:
Two-way
The cat using the magnet on its collar can exit and type in the cat door. The cat just needs to use the magnet when entering the door but not when getting out.
Entry only
Useful setting in case you would like to keep your cat inside at night. The locking has to be done manually when your cat is inside.
Exit only
This feature enables you to keep your cat outside.
Is This Cat Door Easy To Install? Can You DIY or Should You Hire Someone?
The Electromagnetic Cat Mate door is pretty simple to set up. You’ll need a jigsaw, a drill, and a screwdriver. In the item description, you read about the lining. A liner is a frame that is set up through the door, to cover up the interior of the door.
Self-lining ways that you do not have to construct the frame for the cat flap if used in door or perhaps panels.
How to install the Cat Mate Electromagnetic in plastic panels and wooden doors.
These directions are for basic guidance only. You’ll see a far more detailed information and more tips on various types of installations in the instruction booklet.
Place the template in the position you would like the cat door. The bottom part of the gap has to be the same height than your cat’s lower stomach.
Draw the cat flap’s hole around completely.
Before cutting the hole, drill two holes of approximately 1/4 (6mm) diameter in both of the most suited corners.
Cut the hole along the interior of the drawn line using an (electric) jig-saw.
Determine the thickness of the panel in your door, and use the right screws.
Screw it tight, attaching both parts of the cat door.
Advantages and Disadvantages The Cat Mate Electromagnetic Cat Flap?
The Good
4-Way locking system.
Simple directions and easy installation.
Large size, it allows cats up to thirteen lbs to pass though.
The collar magnets are generic magnets. You have a wide selection of buying options to get yourself some back up collars. The magnets just have to be strong enough.
Feral and neighborhoods cats can not use the cat door, provided they don’t have a magnet on their collars.
Flap with brush weather-proof seal.
Low-noise: Not a loud sound when unlocking the flap.
Battery lasts longest compared to all other automatic cat doors.
Recommended for keeping indoor spaces separate.
Wallet-friendly. Good price point.
The Bad
Any cat with a magnet can use the cat door; magnets can’t be programmed to specific pets.
The locking mechanism cannot be offset automatically. You have to tape the latch down to train your cat in the beginning.
The cat door only locks when swinging in, but not when rocking outwards.
An intelligent cat or raccoon can certainly pull the flap open and enter through the door. This occurs only rarely, with extraordinarily intelligent cats and like-minded raccoons.
The magnet on the collar can attract other metal objects. The magnets might limit your cat. No more bells in cat toys, or metal tag names.
It usually requires the magnet to be at a particular level to do the job (margin of error is approximately 0.39″ or one cm), but this may be modified with the placement on the cat’s collar.
The cat flap makes a clicking noise when it unlocks. It’s not obnoxious, but it might affect scaredy cats.
The door sometimes fails to lock when swinging back into the original position. The majority of the time, it does lock, but not 100 % of the time. Faulty locking can be due to the wind or a tail trapped in the door, etc.
The lining is not ideal for thick, sturdy walls
The brush strip on the flap gets dirty with cat hair. You need to clean it occasionally.
Before you buy it, think about the size of your cats. Make sure they will fit through the cat door effortlessly.
When putting the magnet in your cat collar, make sure the paw print of the magnet is facing forward. Additionally, be sure to connect the magnet band around the collar rather than only clipping it to the current metal band on the cat collar. It will prevent the magnet from going sideways
In the beginning, it might be a good idea to tape the door wide open, and place the magnet on your cat’s collar. This way you can get your kitty used to the clicking noise, without any locking mechanism in place. Your cat can take it’s time without feeling rushed.
To keep from having excess cat hair in the brush strip, clean the door from time to time.
If the cat door opens in a half-open position, check out the holes on top sides of the cat door. It probably means they have not been drilled deep enough. thus stopping the hinge from moving freely.
The Cat Mate Electromagnetic cat door works to prevent stray animals from entering the home, and it’s suitable to be used inside too.
However, the flap may be pulled outwards. That might be a flaw with really brazen wild animals and raccoons.
In the event that you have to have a little-added protection against neighborhood pets or even to other animals inside your home, this is a great alternative for you.
If unwanted animals or perhaps other animals outside are remarkably intelligent, powerful and stubborn, this may not work for you.
The Cat Mate Electromagnetic pet door is the very best of this particular kind in this price range, despite the less favorable facts that the points above mentioned.
If you would like a reliable, limited entry system that is 100 % animal-proof, perhaps it’d be a better strategy to get a higher-tech product that has a locking setting in both sides of the flap.
As a result of each of the advantages and disadvantages, and the points mentioned,
we suggest the Cat Mate Electromagnetic cat door:
To households with small to above-average sized cats.
People who live in areas where there are no other (stray) animals attempting to get in through the pet door
To keep your neighbor’s cat or not so intelligent raccoons out.
To separate pets inside your home, if you want to create separate feeding stations or litter box placements
This device might not be ideal for:
Cats that weight over thirteen lbs
Scaredy cats or cats scared of noise
To stop extra aggressive or intelligent pets or raccoons.
Hopefully, no one deliberately makes life difficult for their cat. But not all that stresses out cats is directly apparent.
Certainly, for the caring cat guardian that wants their furry friend to live the very best life possible, it is a good idea to learn what NOT to do. So you can keep your cat free from accidental stress.
Several points in this article tend to be more logical compared to others, but here are ten things to not do to your cat.
These things make them to be unhappy, leads to unnecessary discomfort, and makes life more challenging for you.
Ten Things To Never Do to Your Cat
This list is not an extensive nor definitive list, and in case you have some tips for us, then please share them by making a comment.
1. Do Not Punish your Cat
Your cat jumps on the dining table, and you yell at him or her.
Oh no! What you did was show the cat to not jump on the countertop when you are there. She is still every bit as prone to pop up when you are at work.
Punishment is linked by cats to the person, instead of to the action, so there is a good possibility of damaging the bond between guardian and cat without actually solving the issue.
And even worse, yelling at the cat is an extraordinary source of anxiety.
And remember what good cats do when they are stressed? Pee in the wrong places! No great.
Rather, begin using additional ways to avoid these behaviors, and in case it is crucial to punish, like for the cat’s safety, use an Act of God.. like a stacked up tin cans which will tumble down once the cat jumps on the countertop.
2. Let Your Kitties Share Litter Trays
In case you’re running a multi-cat household, do not count on them to talk about litter boxes. Cats are extremely personal about their toileting. A few felines even demand a special tray for their solid and fluid excretions.
Sharing a litter box with another cat suggests compromising on territorial markers. For instance, scent, and also for although majority chilled cats what this means is pressure.
Additionally, keep the trays clean. No pet wants to use a dirty toilet, especially a sanitary animal like a cat. The effect might be a cat which poops outside of the box as a dirty protest.
If your routine makes it difficult to poop scoop and renew the litter a couple of times one day, then check out an automatic, self-cleaning litter tray.
3. Under-Stimulate Your Pet
Cats require lots of mental stimulation, and especially for an inside cat, it is up you to offer your pet some.
Just because cats love to sleep, does not mean they do not wish to be amused. Think about them like sprinters, who like short spurts of activity followed by recovery and rest.
Try getting in the practice of playing with your cat for a couple of minutes, two or maybe three times one day.
Offer locations just where they’ll perch, like a taller cat tower to find a window and observe the world go by. Leave the television running while you are away, tuned to a wildlife channel.
Offer them cat toys, particularly those with catnip, and spin them round, so there is something new and fascinating to get kitty’s interest.
4. Drive Your Cat Into a Corner
Many cases of aggression in the cat would be the outcome of the cat feeling nervous, stressed, and trapped.
Cats wish to stay away from conflict, but when backed into an area with zero escape routes, they’re likely to feel frightened, and they might lash out to defend themselves.
Understand this simple truth about cat psychology. Move out of a possible escape path for your cat. This way your kitty won’t feel so frightened.
5. Overfeed your Cat
Carrying a lot of weight shortens your cat’s life significantly. There is a powerful link between diabetes and obesity in cats. And more: complications such as joint disease, liver problems, and heart problems.
Do not overfeed your cat, and try using activities to keep your cat in shape. Puzzle feeders or treat dispenser that require some effort from your pet help to get them moving about. These toy treat dispenser also offer emotional stimulation.
6. Leave your Cat Unspayed or -Neutered
Even indoor cats must be desexed. You will find many advantages for this, not least of that’s in case they did escape (and cats searching for a mate can be quite resourceful) they might contribute to the cat population problem by reproducing. Additionally, those raging hormones help make the cat much more apt to enter into a battle, which may result in grabbing a major condition like Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
The unpleasant smell of male cat urine, and also their increased chance of spraying to mark their territory, is included by some other factors to act. It preserves the women the strain of coming into heat every three days, and also the danger associated with a severe womb infection, known as a pyometra, is eliminated by it.
7. Declaw your Cat
Declawing involves amputating the upper part of every toe. Check out your fingers now. Imagine how troublesome and painful life would be if you had the end of every finger, from the top joint, amputated.
Please, do not declaw your cat.
In case your cat gives you clawing and scratching issues in your home, then tackle it by some other means.
This includes offering a lot of emotional stimulation and also providing the cat with a lot of opportunities to scratch.
To do this, determine in case you cat likes to scratch vertical or horizontal surfaces. Maybe you cat likes scratch posts with both the orientations.
Make certain the scratch objects are sturdy and tall. Make sure the cat can reach up far enough, and subsequently rake down. Provide a few of these scratch opportunities, and place them at key locations like exits and entrances, and alongside the cat’s napping spots.
8. Forget About Your Pet’s Dental Health
Exactly when is the last time you looked at your cat’s teeth? Dental diseases are frighteningly common, starting as early as from two, three years of age. By ignoring tooth health, you jeopardize the cat.
This might lead them to require surgery later in life, when their aging body is less able to manage the stress.
Rather, begin brushing your cat’s teeth. Or maybe consider alternatives, like food or water additives, dental hygiene diet programs, or even chew toys with a beneficial cleaning action.
9. Forget To Insure Your Cat
Should your cat become ill, steer away from obtaining treatments for your cat according to what you can afford. Instead, focus on what is ideal for your beloved pet.
When that kitty of yours is insured, you’re free from the boundaries of what you have in your bank account. And you are also able to choose a therapy based on an expert’s recommendation.
Cancer is, unfortunately, a very common disease in cats and dogs. Cancer treatment is incredibly expensive. My friend has spent 15.000 USD on chemotherapy for her cat Hunter, and she wishes she got pet insurance retrospectively. Don’t let it happen to you.
10. Not Getting you Cat Microchipped
Great, your cat remains strictly indoors, so why does she require a chip?
To respond to this, imagine it is a cool, wet winter ‘s night. While you take the food in from the automobile, the cat slips from the home and into the darkness. Since she has never been outdoors before, she’s no concept of exactly where she is.
Any possibility of retracing the fragrance on her paws is flushed out by the rain. This cat will become lost.
Now think she has been picked up and delivered to a shelter. She doesn’t have a microchip. No-one knows if this cat has an owner, so how can they find you?.
Nevertheless, with a chip, it is a simple matter to scan your pet, search for the right person inside the register, and have the shelter provide you with a phone call.
Conclusion
And so there we have it, ten tips of things not to do to your cat. Both you and your cat now have a chance of living in perfect harmony for years to come.
Do you have any suggestions on what tips to include? Remember to leave a comment!
An automatic cat door is a great way of keeping unwanted visitors out, and your beloved pets inside your house. Or outside. Electronic cat flaps are programmable in any setting you might need. In this article, we dive into the specifics of the SureFlap Microchip for Cats.
What is the Sureflap Microchap Cat Door?
The SureFlap Microchip Cat Door is an automatic door for cats that employs a microchip implanted in the cat’s skin as a key. The door only unlocks when your microchipped cat tries to enter your house. Without a chip, intruders such as raccoons, the neighborhood cats, etc. are unable to enter your house through your cat flap.
This cat door has a strong central magnet, to keep the door from swinging in the wind, and to add more security and sealing power.
This particular system doesn’t require the cat to wear a collar with a tag to work, making it extra advantageous if your kitty does not like to wear collars.. or if your cat already lost several of them.
The system of the SureFlap utilizes the principle of “selective entry,” which means it keeps undesired felines and other creatures from entering your home, but any pet can leave, regardless of wether they have a microchip implanted.
The cat flap features a 4-way manual locking setting that enables you to lock it with any combination of in/out your heart desires.
If your cat suffers bullying from a mean neighborhood cat or raccoons, or the other little critters come in to steal your cat;s food, the SureFlap is a great solution to put an end to all these unwanted behaviors.
The SureFlap cat door is suitable for small and medium sized cats.
Features of the SureFlap
The Cat door uses the RFID microchip technology as a key. It also features 4 methods of manual locking:
2-way,
in-only,
out-only
locked.
The flap most likely works with your cat’s existing microchip. It is compatible with 9, 10 and 15 digit microchips. The only exclusions are 10-digit microchips, with codes beginning with 000, 010 and 020. You can program up to 32 microchips ids in the device’s memory.
No collar or tag required. Collars and tags can get lost or stolen. It runs on 4AA batteries (not included). Batteries last from 6-12 months with one cat, depending on the usage frequency. It has a light to indicate a low battery.
Selective entry – any cat can exit (with or without microchip).
It registers your cat’s microchip by pushing one button.
Sturdy and well-designed two-part device that you can install with ease in walls, doors, and windows.
This door fits into the gap left by most of the previous existing cat doors.
The magnet in the center prevents the door from flapping in the wind.
The tunnel design keeps intruder cats from pulling the door inwards.
3-year warranty provided by the manufacturer
View More Information And Customer Reviews on Amazon
Unit Size and Dimensions
Door Opening Dimensions: 5.59? (W) x 4.72? (H) / 142mm (W) x 120mm (H)
(This dimension is the narrowest section of the cat flap that your kitty will have to enter).
Hole Cutting Dimensions: 6.5? (W) x 6.73? (H) / 165mm (W) x 171mm (H)
(The amount of space needed to fit your cat door. The Installation Template can be used to cut the hole).
Exterior Frame Dimensions: 8.25? (W) x 8.25? (H) / 210mm (W) x 210mm (H)
Tunnel Depth (outside): 2.75? / 70mm
Tunnel Thickness: 0.18″ / 4.5mm
Front Frame Depth (inside frame): 1.65″ / 42mm
Item Weight: 2 lbs
Compatibility with Micro Chips
The SureFlap cat door works with the following micro chip codes:
–
15-digit microchips (FDXB, standard in Europe)
10-digit microchips (FDXA, frequently used in the USA). With exception of the 10-digit microchips of those starting with 000, 010 and 020.
9-digit microchips (known as Avid Secure/Encrypted Chip)
If you don’t remember your cat’s microchip number, do not despair.
If your cat has been previously microchipped in the past and you don’t remember the code number, you don’t need to remember it to program the door.
How to program the SureFlap:
Push the program button
Let your cat through the cat flap
The scanner will read the microchip number
Your cat’s microchip will be registered it in the SureFlap’s memory.
If you already have your cat microchipped with an incompatible microchip code, you might want to look into the newer and larger version: The SureFlap Microchip Pet Door. This door is suitable for larger cats and small pooches, and is compatible with all microchips – without exception.
If you haven’t previously microchipped your cat: We advise you to pass the microchip through the pet flap before you have the chip implanted in your cat’s skin. By the time your cat gets micro-chipped, you can be sure the chip is in working order and is already programmed in the entrance’s memory.
When the pre-approved microchipped cat comes close to the door and is about to enter it, a scanner placed in the tunnel scans the microchip, recognizes the ID and automatically unfastens a latch. This automatic action allows the kitty to push the door open with its head or nose, and subsequently enter your house.
The SureFlap microchip works with passive RFID technology. RFID is short for Radio Frequency Identification. RFID makes sure the chip implanted in your cats’ skin does not trigger the locking mechanism to open.
Rather, the microchip contains information waiting to be scanned and subsequently recognized by the scanner situated in the pet door’s frame.
The cat door’s interior structure has two types of sensors to scan the microchip with:
a motion sensor
a radio frequency sensor.
When your cat approaches the flap, first the motion sensor turns on and then activates the Radio Frequency scanner sensor to read the information on the microchip. Once the memory in the cat entrance identifies the chip ID, the system electronically opens the latch for your pet to push the door to get in.
After your cat enters the door, it shuts automatically by way of a strong magnet.
You can set the door with different lengths of time to close. Different closing times are especially useful when getting cats accustomed to automatic cat doors. Cats need to get used to the “click” sound when the scanner reads the microchip, allowing them to get through.
When training your felines to use the SureFlap, we advise you to set the closing speed to the slowest setting. The fastest setting for the flap to fasten after your pet has passed through is approximately 2 seconds.
See a video of the Sure Flap in action:
How does the 4-way locking system work?
2-Way.
Your cats can come indoors and go outdoors as they please. The SureFlap features the principle of selective entry. With selective entry, only micro chipped cats can enter the door, but any pet with or without microchip can leave.
Only-in.
Your cats can only get in, but they can’t get out. You can enable this option by manually turning a dial from the inside. This action locks the latch and keeps your cats in the house.
If one or more of your pets are outside and they are equipped with a microchip, your pet will be able to enter your home, but none of your pets can go outdoors. This option is useful to keep your cats in at night or to get them ready for veterinarian visits.
Only-out.
Any pet can exit the door, but none can get back in. You can manually set this option by turning a dial located on the flap.
This feature could be useful if you want to keep your cat outdoors when allergic visitors come over, the house cleaners do their job, or whatever reasons you might have to (temporary) keep your pets outside.
Locked.
The flap is shut tight. With this setting, no pet can enter or exit through the door. The setting as mentioned earlier is also helpful to keep your cats inside at night if you think your pet could outsmart the “Only In” mechanism. You also use Locked mode when you’re leaving on a trip with your cats.
It is important to mention that SureFlap cat door does not prevent cats without microchip from exiting the door. If you run a multiple cat household and you want to control which cat can enter and leave through the door, it is a better idea to get the SureFlap DualScan.
The 4-Way locking is not automatic or controlled by a timer. If you want your cat to be inside at specific times, you will need to set it by hand by shifting a control on the flap.
The newer version of the SureFlap Microchip Pet Door, designed for larger cats or small dogs, does come with a timer. You can set the timer change the door’s locking settings automatically at pre-programmed times.
What About the Batteries?
Battery Compartment
The batteries should last from 6 up to 12 months, depending on a few factors like:
how many cats use the door
how often you clean dirt and cat hair from it
how many unwanted “visitors” approach the cat flap during the day/night.
The company advises not to use rechargeable batteries because their performance is not 100% reliable. If you do decide to use rechargeable batteries, make sure to change them well before they run out.
If the batteries run out while you aren’t around, the entrance gets locked by default. Batteries going flat may leave your cat locked out or locked in. To help you avoid this terrible disaster, the SureFlap cat door has a battery life indicator, which is a small red led (on top of the door) that blinks when the batteries are about to run out.
Do make sure to check on the battery life indicator often.
How To Install This System?
The SureFlap microchip cat door consists of two parts that are being held together by screws. The depth of this tunnel is created with the two parts, and it’s adjustable. It is wholly adaptable to your doors’ measurement.
The tools you will need for installation of the SureFlap:
Jig saw
1/4″ bit drill (6mm)
Screwdriver
Marker with felt tip
Tape measure
Spirit level
Wooden Doors
The installation of the SureFlap in wooden doors does not have the need for any adapters. You can install it by following the instructions on the YouTube video.
Metal Doors
To install the SureFlap in metal doors, you will need an adapter. The reason is that metal could interfere with the Radio Frequencies, thus stopping the scanner from scanning the microchip.
The adapter is especially a must when the metal has any steel components.
The SureFlap works exceptionally well on garage doors. The design of the SureFlap permits for a much tighter fit on thin metal garage doors than most other cat doors.
Glass Windows
When installing the door in glass windows, an adapter is required.
This adapter is circular with 11″ diameter. It is an excellent idea to let a glazier (glass professional) cut the opening for, instead of you or your handyman hubby.
Brick or Concrete Walls
One or possibly more SureFlap Tunnel Extenders may be required for wall installations, depending on the thickness of the wall. The original SureFlap Microchip cat door, without any Tunnel Extenders, can handle up to 2 inches in depth.
Installing the SureFlap in an Existing Opening
If you want to install the SureFlap onto a pre-existing opening, you will likely have a little bit of extra space on the width and height of the opening. You can use the “Cat Flap Mounting Adapter” to cover up the larger hole, without making the design look ugly.
A clicking noise to act as a hindrance for wild animals following your pet.
Durable weatherproof sealed door (although it may let in a little bit of a draft when not kept clean)
Battery life indicator to notify you of due changes
The long life of included batteries.
Strong magnets allow fast closing of the door
Strong magnet keeps the flap from blowing open by wind gusts.
Well built, solidly made
Easy to install
The Bad
Selective entry means the door locks only in inwards direction, so it can be pulled open from the outside.
Cheeky raccoons can open the door by pulling it open, especially on the setting that allows cats to leave and enter freely.
The opening is on the small side. It is more fitting for small to medium sized felines and less for big cats (euphemism for overweight) or tall cats (4.72″ height).
The clicking noise might be scary to your cat.
Only battery powered, no backup power.
The microchip has to be located directly on the back of the cat’s neck for the RFID sensor to scan the chip.
The magnets make it a little bit laborious for your cats to shove the flap open.
It does not work with 10-digit microchips beginning with 00, 010, 020.
The mechanism requires the cat to stand still close to the door’s tunnel to get the chip scanned.
Tips On Using The System
To train your cat to get used to the “click” sound of the door unlocking, we recommend duct taping the “flap” open. So your cat can pass freely in the beginning. Even if your cats hear the “click,” they won’t be discouraged from pushing the door and going through it.
It will get accustomed to that sound more easily. Some cats take to the door quickly and use it straight away without any issues. Other cats can take days to weeks to get used to it (and a real skittish cat may take a month), but in the end, cats always end up utilizing the SureFlap cat door.
If you don’t want to get your cat microchipped, you can buy a chip and attach it to a cat´s collar. This way you can reuse the collar on other pets if you need to. You can buy new microchips if they get lost; they are rather affordable.
If the scanner of the flap does not scan your cats’ microchip, the chip may have migrated down the neck. We advise you to see your vet if you suspect this is the case.
If you want to keep your cat inside and you know your pet is very smart and strong-minded, it is advisable to use the setting “Locked” rather than “Only In.”
Conclusion
The SureFlap Microchip Cat Door is a remarkably great pet door that operates as advertised. The manufacturer improved the flap with the latest version. It is now much quieter when unfastening the lock. However, there is still a little clicking noise when unlocking; some cats might not like this at first.
But it is not a loud sound, and with a little usage, your pets get accustomed to it fast. The instructions explicitly explain how to train your cat to use the automatic cat door.
If your cat weighs less than 10 lbs, it will go through the flap without effort. Cats weighing over 10 pounds will probably have to do a little squeeze through the door to get inside your house.
For large sized cats, weighing in at 11+ lbs, there is a special larger version which you can view here: the SureFlap Pet Door suitable for larger cats and small dogs.
There are some previous editions of the SureFlap. The manufacturer guarantees that you will get the newest version when you purchase from Amazon.com.
We recommend the SureFlap Microchip Cat Door to anyone who has a micro-chipped cat or who will microchip their pets. It helps greatly in keeping out the neighbor’s cat, or any other wild animals that may be intruding your home. This door is suitable for small to medium sized cats.
We recommend it:
If you want to replace your existing regular pet flap for a SureFlap
To create feeding stations to separate your cats
To separate litter box sites in different rooms to separate your pets
The cat door might not be suitable:
To large breed cats, tall cats or overweight cats weighing more than 11 lbs; fat cats have to squeeze their body to go through.. or won’t fit through at all.
If your cat has a 10-digit microchip that begins with 00, 010 or 020.
If you require a 100% raccoon-proof solution. (The unit stops almost all raccoons, but a super tiny percentage of exceptionally bright raccoons may still outwit the SureFlap).
For handicapped, disable or elderly cats with arthritis
How To Stop A Cat From Spraying Urine and Marking His Territory In The House
Is your cat marking every corner of your house by spraying urine? The smell of stale cat pee is certainly not a pleasant one, and neither is the sight of seeing your cat spray urine on your new couch, curtains and/or walls.
Territorial cats usually spray urine. The markings don’t make their habitat directly safer, but the cat can gather information through spraying. This helps the cat’s territory be safer.
In this article you will discover why cats spray urine, and how to stop this natural, but unwanted, behavior.
P.S. If you tried everything and still no success, we recommend you read this book.
What is cat urine spraying? And why does it happen?
It is important to first understand what this behavior is, and why cats do it, before you learn how to stop it.
Marking territory with urine serves many purposes. It is a complex behavior, and out of scope of this article.
We will outline for you the minimum you should know about feline urine spraying behavior.
Urine markings are a form of communication. By spraying urine cats both send and gather information by smelling the markings of other cats around the area.
Are urine marks like borders? No. Cats, and especially the males, usually have a large territory. Territories can overlap. There are no actual borders that need to be protected. Through cat markings with urine cats can become aware of other cats without actually ever meeting each other face-to-face.
Insecure cats spray more. If a cat does not feel secure, she will spray more. The markings don’t make the area safer directly, but they help the cat gather information about other felines in and around their territory.
Why do cats spray over other cats’ markings? A marking helps a cat to know if other cats visit there. A cat actually expects other cats to spray over his spraying marks. A cat does not spray to show dominance or to claim a territory.
Why do cats keep spraying the same place? As long as the corner smells like urine, the cat wants to keep marking it to gather and send information to possible other cats.
Cats do not spray urine for revenge. Sometimes, scolding your cat can lead to spraying behavior. The cat thinks this may actually improve your relationship.
Other territorial markings of cats include clawing (in this article you can read more about cat clawing and how to stop it), and scenting objects with their cheeks and forehead.
Neuter your cat to stop urine marking
Cats spray for a multitude of reasons. The two primary reasons are to secure their territory and to find sexual partners. Helping a cat feeling more secure around his territory is a complex process. But lowering your cats sexual appetite is however an easy surgical procedure, carried out daily by vets all around the globe.
When will a cat stop spraying after being neutered? That depends on many things, but here are some pointers:
The vast majority of cats will stop spraying immediately after neutering.
1 to 4 weeks after neutering.
Only when additional measures are taken. (see below)
For the majority of people, neutering Mr. Mittens will be enough to stop him from spraying. If your cat keeps spraying after he has been neutered, keep on reading below.
Note:
Your male cat will not stop spraying urine without neutering. Urine marking is natural behavior. Testosterone is the main cause of this. Testosterone is produced in the testicles.
Find other causes of your cat´s urine spraying behavior
Sometimes cats don´t stop spraying immediately after being neutered. It is possible you only need to wait a little while longer, about 1 to 4 weeks. Or finding sexual partners was not the sole reason of your feline´s behavior We list a few common possible causes of urine marking by cats.
Multi-cat household
Cats not getting along with each other is a common problem. A cat can be bullied by another cat. An unsettled hierarchy in the household can be a cause. The cat´s territory, or access to food and water is being threatened.
Having more resources in the house usually helps. Add more litter boxes in multiple locations. More food and water bowls can work wonders too.
Other (indoor) cats.Since urine marking is a form of communication between cats, most likely it is caused by other cats, even if you have a single indoor cat.Having enough napping locations is also important, as is vertical territory (Link to article) Make sure climbing spots have no dead-ends where cats can be trapped by other pets. A great help for multiple cat owners is the book cat vs vst (aff lons)
Outdoor cats Common problems can be your cat going outside and spraying urine upon returning home. Your cat seeing other cats through a window, or smelling other cats´ urine marking through the wall. Sometimes this can be a cause of aggressiveness in cats.Keep other cats out of the yard. Clean the cat urine outside your house. Block the view that is causing the problems. Blinds or sticky films work well, or otherwise blockingthe window view. Spending more time interacting positively with your cat helps them to build confidence in their surroundings.
Tensions with an owner. A common cause of urine spraying. The cat experiences a feeling of insecurity about his environment.Do not yell or punish your cat for his behavioral problems, including urine marking. Give the cat as much freedom as possible. Increase the amount of time interacting and building trust with your cat through playing, petting, talking, brushing and other positive activities. Adding climbing opportunities can also help.
Changes are a common cause of stress in cats
Stress in cats is the most common reason of spraying urine in neutered cats. We listed a few common causes of stressful situations, and how to remedy them.
A new baby in the house, or a toddler starting to crawl or walk. It may be necessary to modify the environment. Create secure, elevated surfaces. Give your cat more attention, or make at least sure that it´s not getting less attention than before. Feeding your cat while the baby is nearby is a good way of getting accustomed for the cat. It´s important to teach toddlers how to interact in a positive way with cats, and how to pet cats the right way.
New person in the household, or new frequent visitors. The cat and the person are not getting along. The cat can be afraid of the person. People can be too loud, or maybe they don´t like cats. Some people are afraid of cats. Get the other person involved in feeding, playing and petting. Not everyone knows cat behavior basics. Sometimes explaining cat behavior basics and signs of aggression and dislike to the person is the solution.
Changes in the cat’s territory. Almost any change in the cat’s environment can cause stress. Some cats are more prone to stress than others. This can even be something as small as adding new furniture, or displacing coats and jackets. Moving houses often is a trigger of stress, especially if everything is new inside. To counter this, make changes slowly and gradually. Make sure you have enough playtime with your pet. Spraying furniture with pheromones can also do the trick, as does adding more climbing opportunities.
Changes in daily schedule. Often a change in the cat’s feeding schedule is the culprit. If you need to make changes to your cats’ routine, try do so gradually.
Other changes. New pets or scents in the house, a new food brand or new sounds can also attribute to significantly higher stress-levels. Try to get your cat slowly accustomed by making these changes gradually, if possible. If not, make sure you give your cat plenty of playing time and positive attention.
These are just a few causes of stress in cats. Other stress they may experience can also be a cause for urine spraying. Due to stress, the cat feels less confident and secure in his territory. By urine marking, the cat is trying to secure his territory. Often there are multiple causes that make a cat build up stress.
Certain medical conditions can also be a cause for spraying behavior. Cats can have medical conditions that interfere with their hormonal balance. If the cat is in pain or experience’s discomfort, this can also lead to stress. Bring you pet to the vet as soon as you have the slightest hint of health problems, especially when you have done and tried everything to stop your cat from spraying urine, without success.
Thoroughly clean urine from spraying locations.
Cats re-spray their old marks. This helps them keep their markings updated. Other cats spray over markings of other cats. This helps the cats understand who is in their territory. If the cat smells that the spot has been previously marked, it will spray urine.
Cleaning cat urine with everyday cleaning supplies is not enough to completely get rid of the cat urine smell. Even if it smells clean to you, your cat will still be able to smell the mark. A cat’s nose is far more sensitive than yours. When the cat smells the mark, the urge arises to spray there again.
How to find cat urine?
You usually find cat urine either by seeing your cat spray somewhere, or by smelling it. So you know where to clean, right? Unfortunately this is not the case.
The scent of cat urine can linger for as long as a few months. You have to clean every single spot your cat has urine marked during this period. You can try and remember all spots that your cat uses to spray, or write them down. Even then it is still possible to miss spraying locations. Cats have a much more sensitive nose than you. It is easy to miss a spot.
A simple black-light LED flashlight is your solution. Certain substances light up under black light, including cat urine.
You can usually buy these flashlights in hardware stores, but it’s often cheaper, easier and quicker to do so online. If you shine your black light over area’s where cats have sprayed, a grayish/yellowish glow will appear. This is the area that you need to clean very thoroughly with a specialized cat urine remover.
As you can see, without a UV black-light it is very, very difficult to get rid of all the urine stains your cat (or dog) has made around the house. We recommended investing in a good quality UV light, like this one, if you need to thoroughly clean pet urine.
How to clean cat urine?
Use a specialized cleaning detergent that is specifically made for removing cat urine. These cleaning supplies do not mask the smell, but bind to the molecules that cause it. This completely eliminates cat urine and consequently, the smell.
Specialized cleaning supplies can be bought at pet stores, some hardware stores and online here.
Most cleaning detergents for cat urine are quick and easy to use, with a simple “spray on and let dry” mechanism. Some require a bit more instruction, so always check the label before use.
Make new associations with the spraying location
Giving a new purpose to the location that is being marked with urine is the next step in the process of stopping cats from spraying. In their natural habitat, cats do not spray certain locations.
E.g. Cats do not spray areas where they sleep or hunt.
There are several ways to make these changes in your household, we’ll list a few. If you already tried below options without (lasting) success, we advise you to read this book.
Tips:
Place a water bowl in the vicinity of the markings. Cats to dot spray urine where they drink.
Spray the location with catpheromones. Pheromones are scents that cats leave behind by rubbing against objects. You can buy these pheromones in a spray solution. If the cat gets the scent that a location has been marked by rubbing, it will registered this location as “marked” and therefore not spray it.
Place a scratching post near the markings. Cats not only scratch to keep their claws in good shape. Scratching serves a few purposes. By scratching, cats leave behind scents from their paws. Scratching marks are also a visually indicator of the presences of felines. If the cat scratches near the place where urine spraying occurred, the cat will no longer need to urinate there. Territorial urges have already been met.
Play with your cat near the urine marking location. Playing and hunting are essentially equal to cats. Cats do not spray urine where they hunt, as this would alert their prey. We can simulate this behavior by playing with your cat with an interactive toy for 10 to 15 minutes around the spot. Have a few of these sessions daily. It takes about a week to see a noticeable improvement. Don’t forget to play regularly with you cat after that!
Feed your cat near the spraying location. This behavior is related to hunting. If you provide food at set times and places, make the spraying location a feeding place instead. If you free feed your cat , leave some food at the spot that used to be sprayed.
Place your cat’s bed near the spraying location. Sometimes placing a cardboard box for napping is enough. A cat’s sleeping spot must be a safe and secure place. A cat would not spray around there, because he does not want other cats to be alerted of his whereabouts.
Important: While you are helping your cat to stop spraying his old location, your cat start making new ones somewhere else. This is often caused by the cat not feeling secure in his habitat.
Distract your cat before spraying occurs.
You are probably aware of the signs and body language a cat shows before he is about to leave his spray marks. Common indicators are:
Positioning of the hind legs against the soon-to-be-sprayed spot
Treading with his front paws
Raising of the tail
When you notice your cat is going to spray urine on your wall, you might want to stop that from happening. Distract the cat by refocusing his attention in a positive manner.
Several positive ways of grabbing your pet’s attention:
Call your cat First, make sure your cat responds. Keep calling and pet him, of give him a treat if he responds well. You can also pet your cat, to associate not spraying with positive attention..
Bribe with treats If you want to get a cats attention, a sure way is to rattle or open a pack of their favorite treats. Food is more interesting than spraying.
Throw in a hunting opportunity Dingle a thread or throw a toy in your feline’s direction. If it contains catnip, that’s often even more effective. Keep playing for a couple of minutes with your pet afterwards.
Clicker training Clicker training is a good way of training and correcting behavior. It’s easier because you don’t need to have a toys or treats near you at all times. In these cases, clicker training is a very handy tool.
Note: It is important that you apply above tips and tricks only if you get your cat’s attention before the urine spraying. If you apply these tips after the spraying, you will only reinforce the spraying behavior by rewarding your cat with positive attention.
Do not punish your cat after spraying urine.
It’s not fun when your cat marks your couch with urine. But punishing your cat will only make him spray more. Neutered cats most often spray because of stress. Punishing your cat either through physical punishment or by yelling will not stop you cat from spraying urine, but will only increase the behavior. Cats that are neutered commonly spray due to stress. Punishment increases stress greatly.
It is best to ignore your cat completely when he marks. Ignore the bad behavior, and reward the good.
Clean up after your cat with the methods described above. Don’t pay any attention to your cat while cleaning. Don’t call him, lecturing him, or give any attention in any way. Clean the area and next time prevent your cat from spraying, before it happens.
Provide a safe, secure and calm living area for your cat.
The gist of this article is that cats most commonly spray urine because of stress, if hormonal factors are out of the question. It is the best interest in both of you to get rid or minimize stress.. If you manage to reduce stress, your cat will not spray urine any more.
If you still have problems with your cat’s spraying behavior, invest in this book. It has more detailed information on cat spraying and how to stop it.
Thanks for reading, and if you have any comments, suggestions or questions, please leave them in the comments below. J
During the process of domestication, indoor members of feline family gradually accepted rules that humans imposed to them. Including litter boxes. Because of that, owning a cat requires much less of your time and attention than owning a dog.
You don’t have to take your kitty out whenever she needs to relieve. But, there are some other tasks related to cat ownership. Litter box cleaning for example. You will have to scoop daily, or even twice a day. If you have more than one cat, scooping work will multiply, too.
Besides, dirty litter is full of bacteria that can easily transfer into the human body. This can be especially harmful to people with impaired immunity and pregnant women. If you use an automatic litter box like the Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box (see on Amazon), it will separate the waste into the closed compartment, so you won’t have to put your fingers around cat feces. The odor will be minimized, and your kitty will always have a fresh “toilet”.
The Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box was created to help cat owners with keeping the cat box tidy. This electronic litter box works well in single cat and multiple cat households. The product is really simple to assemble and comes with instructions provided. There is a step-by-step YouTube video which can be helpful. Everything can be put together on-click, so you won’t need to use any tools.
While assembling the Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box, you will notice that it has 2-in-1 Odor Elimination system. The first line of defense is the liner placed in the waste compartment. It will absorb bad smells and keep them locked in.
For an extra odor elimination, there is a baking soda filter. This filter neutralizes everything that goes through the liner. With double odor protection, your house will always smell good. You won’t need to spend your money on additional air refreshers.
For More Information and Buying Options, View On Amazon
It is very important to fill the tray with the right amount of litter. You should pour somewhere between two min/max lines on the sides. The brand of the litter used is not significant, as long as it can form hard clumps.
When the kitty relieves, the clumped urine and feces will be picked up with a movable rake and sent into the waste receptacle. This is a simple but effective way to separate the refuse from the clean litter.
When programming the unit, you can set it to be active every 1, 4 or 8 hours. The frequency of cleaning should be higher if you have more cats. Some cat owners prefer automatic litter boxes that activate after every use, but you can always run additional cleaning cycle manually.
Although Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box is already less noisy than similar products, sleep mode will keep the unit completely inactive during the night. Also, there are infra-red motion sensors that will stop the rake from moving backward if the kitty reenters while cleaning. This is very important for your pet’s safety.
Maintenance of this product is simple since the motor can be detached with a click. This means that you can wash it with soap and water when you remove the motor.
You won’t have to fear that you will damage sensitive electronic parts. The rake is also removable because it might need more frequent washing.
Features
Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box is assembled on-click. No tools are needed.
You can use any brand of hard clumping litter.
Can be used in multiple cat households.
Special waste receptacle liner that absorbs the bad smell.
Baking soda filters for additional odor elimination. The filters are safe for the environment.
Odor filter should be changed monthly if you have one cat.
The cleaning cycle activates on timer. It can be set to sweep hourly, or it can be programmed to rake every 4 or 8 hours.
The cleaning cycle can also be started manually.
Light indicators, so you know how the timer is set.
The unit has a sleep mode
Infra-red motion sensors for safety. They will stop the rake if the cat enters.
Min and max fill lines for the optimal amount of litter
Motor can be detached so the unit can be cleaned with soap and water
The rake is removable, for more frequent cleaning
The rake is made of non-stick material
One baking soda filter and three spare liners are included in the price
The Instruction Book with detailed instructions is also provided
Dimensions of the product: 23 inches L x 18.2 inches W x 9.6 inches H
It has numerous great features like the waste liner, baking soda odor filter, detachable motor, safety infra-red sensors, just to name a few.
When you program the unit, you can set it to clean every 1, 4 or 8 hours. You can also initiate the cleaning cycle manually or set it to the sleep mode during the night.
Whenever the timer activates the box, the rake will go through the litter separating the waste. The waste will be placed in a liner which will prevent the odor fr
om getting out. It also has additional baking soda odor filter that is safe for the environment. The unit has a beautiful design, and it can fit in any décor. Replacing the waste liner is hygienic, and it won’t require you to touch the waste.
The Arm & Hammer Quiet No Odor Litter Box is not noisy for and automatic cat box so it won’t traumatize the kitty. It can be used in single cat or multiple cat households. If you don’t want to get in contact with harmful bacteria every day when you scoop manually, you should consider getting this kind of product.
If you own a cat for quite some time you are probably sick and tired of scooping by now. Once or twice a day, you have to mess with the dirty litter. Putting your face near this smelly area while the litter dust flies around is certainly not how you imagined cat ownership. And it is also not good for your health. But, in order to keep your kitty happy you just have to do that. I mean HAD. Now there is a revolutionary Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box on the market. This product will solve all your scooping problems. You will not have to breathe in the litter dust while cleaning your kitty’s “potty” ever again. Instead, all you will have to do is roll the unit and empty the pullout scoop. Who would have thought that cleaning the dirty litter box could be so easy?
Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box uses interior grill system to separate the waste from the clean litter. After you assemble the unit, fill it with about two inches of cat litter. You can use either hard clumping litter or silica litter. Stick to the one that your kitty used before to make the transition to the new box more acceptable for her. Some kitties are very fussy when it comes to their “toilet” habits.
Since the Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box has an enclosed design, it will give enough privacy even to the shyest cats. It can be used in single or multiple cat households. The lid will prevent the litter dust and granules from flying around while your kitty digs. This is especially useful for felines that really like to pile the litter. If you want to prevent the litter mess completely, you can buy a paw cleaning mat and place it in front of the exit. Since this hole is the only way for your pet to get out, she will have to step on this mat.
Assembling Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box is very simple, and even a little girl can do it. It doesn’t require any tools or physical strength. When you put the lid on top, all clips will have to line up correctly. Otherwise, the product won’t work properly. Also, whenever you need to change the entire litter or clean the unit, you should remove the top part.
Just roll it over…
Here is how the interior grill system works. When the kitty relieves, it will take a minute or two for clumps to form, depending on which brand of litter you use. After that, you can start with manual self-cleaning. Roll over the box to the right, toward the side where the pullout scoop is placed. When you lean the box to this side, the entire amount of litter will go through the grill except the waste. The refuse will stay on top. Hit the bottom of the box gently to be sure that no waste sticks to it. Then return the box to its normal position. During the rollover, all of the refuse will fall into the removable scoop. All you will have to do now is to pull it out by the handle and throw the refuse away.
…. and scoop it out.
Cat owners love this product because it is very simple and it has an acceptable price. There is no motor that can break down, so the unit is very durable. Also, no motor means no noise that can scare off your cat and disturb your sleep. You can place this cat box anywhere in the house since there are no cords or adapters connected to the unit. The best thing is that there are no hidden costs associated with Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box. You won’t have to buy spare cartridges, waste receptacles or liners, which are required for most automatic litter boxes. It won’t even increase your electric bill!
However, there are a few things that you should keep in mind when buying this product. It is a self-cleaning litter box, but you will have to roll it over manually. This means that you will have to do some work every day in order to keep it clean. But, you won’t have to inhale litter dust or put your fingers near the waste. It is much easier and hygienic to roll over the unit than to scoop manually.
If your kitty has to wear e-collar, she won’t be able to use the unit with the top part on. You will have to detach the lid every time she needs to go. Another solution would be to keep the cover off, and put it back only for the cleaning. Luckily, cones are temporary, so it will be just a small sacrifice that you will have to make for your pet’s health.
If you are looking for the best balance between the price and the quality when buying a self cleaning litter box, Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box (get it here) might be the right product for you. It has interior grill system that will separate the waste into the pullout scoop whenever you roll over the unit. Then you just empty the scoop without the need to touch the refuse. You won’t get in contact with harmful bacteria or inhale litter dust. The enclosed design will prevent litter mess and keep your house tidy like you don’t have a cat at all. This product works with any premium clumping or silica litter. Even if you have more than one cat, Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box is suitable for your household. You will just have to clean it more often. This cat box is not noisy, and even the shyest kitties feel comfortable using it.
Marking territory with urine serves many purposes. It is a complex behavior, and out of scope of this article.
Omega Paw Large Self Cleaning Litter Box has a one-year manufacturer warranty.